Interesting. The balls seem to fly off the Corndog more than other bats. Maybe not.Performance-wise, the Corndog is no better than a regular wood bat. Where it beats solid wood is in the durability department. Wood bats generally break at the taper/handle and rarely in the barrel. The composite handle on the Corndog will tolerate balls off the end and taper much better.
If you go the solid wood route, don't cheap out. All those $30-$50 Easton and LS bats are made from wood that never would've been used in a baseball bat. Crooked, twisted grain is the norm. Phoenix, Viper, MaxBat are all good bets. Not sure about their availability outside of Canada but a lot of guys up here (myself included) use B45 yellow birch bats.
Could be the added flex you get with a two piece.Interesting. The balls seem to fly off the Corndog more than other bats. Maybe not.
Interesting. The balls seem to fly off the Corndog more than other bats. Maybe not.
The ball is more important when using wood bats rather than the bat itself. C+ or other .52s will fly respectably. Classic Ms or .44 375s will fly much worse.
This is something that gets overlooked. Since a wood bat has no "trampoline" effect, performance is 90% determined by the ball.
I play in two leagues, one uses .52/275 Worth Hot Dots and the other uses .40/400 Gray Dots. With the .52/275's I'm hitting homeruns almost as often as I did when it was a composite bat league. In the .40/400 league I have 2 homeruns in 3.5 seasons.
Gray Dots with wood bats has to just be miserable. You get NO spring off the bat with those dead balls. I've hit classic M ZNs with wood bats, and it's the same thing. Very, very hard to hit them 300'. Practically impossible, in fact.
The Gray Dots serve a purpose; all the local fields were built before composites existed and have ~260' fences. Even on such small fields, homeruns are rare and are only hit by the guys that should be hitting them.