bat monger
Combat Advisory staff
I'm putting this together to help answer some of the most commonly asked questions about Combat. Read this entire thread as there is good info posted by other knowledgeable people.
If you can’t find the answer you are looking for, Click here.
Combat rep list
Recent bat sales
Barrel lengths
Difference between FL, EL, and XEL
OG grips for buy sell trade
Price Guide
How to join the Combatants
XR-17 vs. XR-4M vs. XR-0 vs. GR-4M vs. XR-5…………Coop explains the difference
What batch virus fast pitch do I have?
First batch b1: black knob and composite endcap . Some of them had a black rubber endcap. These were warranty returns for broken composite endcaps. The value is lower on these. Some first batches also had endcaps replaced by combat with plastic endcaps. The value is lower on these also. Red knobs were no return models. Gold knobs were players models. Grey knobs were second batches. A very few models had composite endcaps with gray knobs. These are still considered first batches.
Scott Brown and Bryson Baker Models (OG SBGV & SBGV RI & BBGV): Original Scott Browns had a 10” barrel and had a manufactures date of 2007. They are very rare. Bryson Baker had a signature bat but left combat shortly after it was produced leaving combat with a large stock of them that they weren’t going to sell with his name on it. They repainted them and shortened the barrel to 12.5” and called them are SBGV. These have a manufacturers date of early (Jan.) 2008. They made a second run of SBGV. These had a later 2008 manufactuers date. These are the true Reissues.
Difference between Dan Smith plague and OG plague: The DS plague and OG plague are the same bat except the DS used a slightly different resin to hold the composite together and has more of an endload. Also, there is no performance difference with the DS that is missing Rusty Bumgardner’s signature.
Combat warranty and returns: Combats current return policy
Help, my endcap keeps coming loose……This was typical of combats for a few years. Allow the endcap to come out on its own or gently pry the endcap out without damaging your bat or endcap. There are two options you can do. You can mail the bat back to combat and they will repair your endcap. Or you can do it yourself. They best way to repair your endcap is to use 3M 5200 marine adhesive. This can be found at your local big branch chain home improvement store. Clean the endcap thoroughly, then sand it slightly and clean again. Repeat this procedure with the end of the bat making sure to get an residual glue out of there. Apply adhesive liberally. Wipe off any excess. Done. Allow 7 days to fully cure and you should never have a problem again.
What usssa/nsa bat is closest to the Anti-Virus: The AV has an 11” barrel. The closest in terms of feel and sweetspot are the OG virus and the virus enhanced.
Target endcap vs. C endcap: The target endcap is on all of the older combats. The transition period with these was right around the plague/afflicted/supremacy/morphed bats. The change was due to the target endcaps had problems staying in these bats. So they redesigned the endcap and put a C on them. There is no price or performance difference in either of these endcaps.
How to identify no return or Players models: There are four no return model made by combat. The derby boys, scott brown 98 and the virus enhanced (there was a returnable and a no return players model) and the franc henry 52cal. These are clearly marked “players model no return”. The old way combat marked there no return models was stamped on the knob of the bat. The current way combat is marking the no return models is by engraving them on the taper of the bat.
How cold does it have to be before I should put down my combat? The general consensus is 60*. But this also has a lot to do with what balls you are using. The harder the ball, the warmer it should be. If you do want to swing a combat and the temps are getting colder, the OG gear, Scott Brown gear and the derby boys are the best to use. But don’t come crying to use if it breaks when you are hitting frozen balls in 35* at your local snow ball tourney in January.
The infamous collection of Hebrew Hacker
If you can’t find the answer you are looking for, Click here.
Combat rep list
Recent bat sales
Barrel lengths
Difference between FL, EL, and XEL
OG grips for buy sell trade
Price Guide
How to join the Combatants
XR-17 vs. XR-4M vs. XR-0 vs. GR-4M vs. XR-5…………Coop explains the difference
What batch virus fast pitch do I have?
First batch b1: black knob and composite endcap . Some of them had a black rubber endcap. These were warranty returns for broken composite endcaps. The value is lower on these. Some first batches also had endcaps replaced by combat with plastic endcaps. The value is lower on these also. Red knobs were no return models. Gold knobs were players models. Grey knobs were second batches. A very few models had composite endcaps with gray knobs. These are still considered first batches.
Scott Brown and Bryson Baker Models (OG SBGV & SBGV RI & BBGV): Original Scott Browns had a 10” barrel and had a manufactures date of 2007. They are very rare. Bryson Baker had a signature bat but left combat shortly after it was produced leaving combat with a large stock of them that they weren’t going to sell with his name on it. They repainted them and shortened the barrel to 12.5” and called them are SBGV. These have a manufacturers date of early (Jan.) 2008. They made a second run of SBGV. These had a later 2008 manufactuers date. These are the true Reissues.
Difference between Dan Smith plague and OG plague: The DS plague and OG plague are the same bat except the DS used a slightly different resin to hold the composite together and has more of an endload. Also, there is no performance difference with the DS that is missing Rusty Bumgardner’s signature.
Combat warranty and returns: Combats current return policy
Combat will repair broken or loose endcaps on all of their bats and typically do not use that as warranty return. The general return time for combat is 3 weeks if the bat is in stock. Keep in mind that they are located in Seattle WA so pony express takes a long time to get back to the east coast. Combat also uses UPS for shipping which does not ship on weekends.usssa bats (old stamp)= old stamp bat
asa = usssa (old stamp) or asa old stamp
usssa (new stamp)= anything in stock with a new stamp or old
asa new stamp= asa (new stamp) or old stamp in both usssa and asa.
Hope this helps, we have plenty of stock in old stamped bats
Help, my endcap keeps coming loose……This was typical of combats for a few years. Allow the endcap to come out on its own or gently pry the endcap out without damaging your bat or endcap. There are two options you can do. You can mail the bat back to combat and they will repair your endcap. Or you can do it yourself. They best way to repair your endcap is to use 3M 5200 marine adhesive. This can be found at your local big branch chain home improvement store. Clean the endcap thoroughly, then sand it slightly and clean again. Repeat this procedure with the end of the bat making sure to get an residual glue out of there. Apply adhesive liberally. Wipe off any excess. Done. Allow 7 days to fully cure and you should never have a problem again.
What usssa/nsa bat is closest to the Anti-Virus: The AV has an 11” barrel. The closest in terms of feel and sweetspot are the OG virus and the virus enhanced.
Target endcap vs. C endcap: The target endcap is on all of the older combats. The transition period with these was right around the plague/afflicted/supremacy/morphed bats. The change was due to the target endcaps had problems staying in these bats. So they redesigned the endcap and put a C on them. There is no price or performance difference in either of these endcaps.
How to identify no return or Players models: There are four no return model made by combat. The derby boys, scott brown 98 and the virus enhanced (there was a returnable and a no return players model) and the franc henry 52cal. These are clearly marked “players model no return”. The old way combat marked there no return models was stamped on the knob of the bat. The current way combat is marking the no return models is by engraving them on the taper of the bat.
How cold does it have to be before I should put down my combat? The general consensus is 60*. But this also has a lot to do with what balls you are using. The harder the ball, the warmer it should be. If you do want to swing a combat and the temps are getting colder, the OG gear, Scott Brown gear and the derby boys are the best to use. But don’t come crying to use if it breaks when you are hitting frozen balls in 35* at your local snow ball tourney in January.
The infamous collection of Hebrew Hacker
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